Lifestyle of a Post apocalyptic Urban Peasant

My understanding of fashion is that it is a form of fiction.

Depression, Guilt and Redemption are the themes that inspired this collection, themes that are at the heart of Dostoevsky’s Crime and Punishment.

For my graduate collection entitled „lifestyle of a post apocalyptic urban peasant“, I wanted to re-imagine the novel as a retro-futuristic dystopian film.

Select from the icons below to learn about the process and results of the various aspects of the collection.

Research & ConceptSketchesSketchesPrototypes / WIPFlatsLooksAccessoriesPresentationKey VisualsPackagingPress

Research & Concept

Concept & Research

Concept

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Key Visual - Imaginary Film Still: young woman with blank stare, yellow subtitles: "and then, guilt consumes you in your yoga class and your teacher convinces you, you have to come back more often, to solve these issues. Right?"

CRIME & PUNISHMENT

The fiction that underlies the collection is a re-imagination of Crime and Punishment by Dostoevsky as a Dystopian Science Fiction Film. It is the story of a young student, Raskolnikov, who in his isolation, arrogance and depression murders an old pawnbroker, whom he considers a „louse“, for the greater good of society. What follows is a paranoid haze of guilt, from which he is eventually saved by Sonia, a young and very religious prostitute who moves him to confess his crimes. Dostoevsky’s St. Petersburg of the 1860s is much like any major city of today, with mental health, injustice and poverty, self-righteousness, arrogance and guilt being central themes of the story.
earliest moodboard
Russian fashions of the poor and rich in the 19th century form a source of inspiration for silhouettes, but have been distorted by drip shapes reminiscent of dripping blood. Colors and Materials are a mix of fleshy, earthen and furry juxtaposed with synthetic and transparent fabrics - inspirations for this are meats, fruits, blood and moths (as a symbold of insanity). Very detailed plastic fishing baits by the company Rebel Lures serve as zipper pulls, while their vintage packaging served as an inspiration for prints. Elastic cords in tulle casings add an element of sports- and casual-wear, which is juxtaposed by the tortoiseshell cord locks.
early color tests
research: russian earliest moodboardearliest moodboard
research: russian earliest moodboard
collection concept board

Mood Boards

Collection Research & Development

Branding & Presentation Research & Development

Sketches

Title

textile design

prototypes and process

flats

LOOKS

Looks

DETAILS
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The focal point of the silhouettes are the neck, sternum and arms, with very high, tight necklines and collars, sloping shoulders (achieved through raglan sleeves) and variations of volume in the sleeves. The neck is an erotic and feminine part of the female body, without being overtly sexy, and emphasizing it lends elegance to a look, while also looking slightly severe and protective. The lower half of the silhouettes are quite voluminous, referencing the general shape of the russian sarafan.

Blood Dress

Crawfish   
           Jumpsuit

Rope Shopper

Crawfish Sweatshirt Dress

Moth Jumpsuit

Peasant Blouse

Astrakhan Sleeves

Blood Drip Skirt

Yellow House Sweatshirt

Apron Pant

Pocket Apron

Psikhushka Turtleneck

Tulle Peasant Blouse

Blue Moth Bag

Meat Pant

Moth Pant

Civil Service Top

Faux Fur Jacket

Tulle Peasant Dress

DETAILS

Beautifully detailed plastic fishing baits by the company Rebel Lures serve as zipper pulls, while their vintage packaging served as an inspiration for prints. Elastic cords in tulle casings add an element of sports- and casual-wear to the high, gathered necklines and collars (a reference to historical Russian clothing), which is juxtaposed by the tortoiseshell cord locks - a typically sportswear notion made from an atypical material.

accessories

Accessories

Accessories were designed with practicality in mind, but with more abstract, organic shapes than are usually found in practical wear.

Air Pod Jewelry

Since music plays an enormous part in instilling an element of fiction into the daily life of the wearer, I designed jewelry that attaches to bluetooth earphones.

Technology is with us almost always nowadays, with many people buying from the same tech brands. I'm interested in the customization and personalization of these objects.

Bags

Bags that are attached to the body to leave the hands free were inspired by images I came across in my research into Russian historical clothing.

A shopper created from one long, coiled rope is a more organic take on the classic string shopping bag.

Shoes

As with the shopper, the shoes were created from coiled ropes that were then attached to one of three different base shoes (high heel, low heel and sneaker).

presentation

Presentation

Pop-Up Rack
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Graduate show
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BA Thesis Presentation

Design, Hair & Make Up, Direction & Choreography: Nina Britschgi
Concept and Edit: Linda Dagli Orti
Cinematography: Nicolas Heitz  Yannik Zamboni  Anique Wild
© Institute of Fashion Design, FHNW Academy of Art and Design 2018 www.doingfashion.ch

Pop Up Display Rack

This pop-up shop / garment rack hybrid was designed to present and display my thesis collection and sell merchandise at our graduate show.

There is space to hang garments, shelves for accessories and an acrylic display wall for smaller merchandise, business cards and packaging materials.​

The wheels elevate this object from a stationary structure by giving it a performative character.
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To ensure the rack is transportable, it disassembles in to 4 pieces that can be transported in a truck. Two people are needed for this process.

The elements of the acrylic display wall are removable, leaving behind only small holes, which allows for new modules to be installed in the future.

​The entire acrylic wall can be removed too, to be replaced by a new color or finish.

Garment Hanger

Acrylic and metal.

I designed the collapsible tortoiseshell garment hangers for use with the Pop Up Rack. The folding feature prevents stretching the collections many high-necklines.

The unusual hanging mechanism also makes it harder to take off the rack, discouraging theft from the 360° rack in a busy setting.

Research & Technical Drawings

Graduate Show

Under the motto "LAND ON GLITTER" we, the graduates of the Institute of Fashion Design in Basel (part of the Academy of Art and Design, University of Applied Sciences and Art Northwestern Switzerland), were able to present our collections at the Institutes's yearly graduate show.​

The show is the Academy of Art and Design's largest yearly event, with the entire Institute working together to bring fashion to life in a performative way.

Key Visuals

Key Visuals

The key visuals are fake film stills I created by combining stills I’ve collected over the years, my own photography, quotes from "Crime and Punishment" and in one case a spoken word song lyric from Sevdaliza's "Do You Feel Real". They convey the mood of the fiction I’m trying to create with the collection, using images the viewer might already be familiar with, thus framing the old text in a contemporary context.
Key Visual Inspiration

Documentation

The documentation of my thesis is a small folio, with the cover being printed on full size, pink butcher paper, which then folds around the booklet, wrapping it up. The wrapped folio is packaged inside a transparent and silver plastic bag, with a sticker on the front of the "fashion is fiction" dialogue box.
I printed 5 folios in total, that each have a different image on the butcher paper cover.

Documentation Folio Spreads

In addition to the documentation, I created a set of custom binders. One for my creative research & development, and the other for production management related files like timelines, materials research, ordered supplies and delivery status, technical drawings and specs of the display rack to be shared with the manufacturers, garment construction notes to be shared with my underclassmen helpers and tailors etc.
My alma mater's curriculum allows and encourages underclassmen to help the graduating class with their collections, as a way for the first and second years to learn and connect (like a mini-internship) and to give the graduating class some extra hands. The school also collaborates with a local vocational school to pair each graduate with a tailor's apprentice for 2 days.
Knowing this it was important to me that I document and manage my graduate project in a way that would allow helpers to quickly understand their task and my concept & vision. This preparation enabled my amazing helpers to work relatively independently, freeing up time for me to focus on tasks I couldn't delegate.

Branding & Packaging

Mood Boards

Collection Research & Development

Branding & Presentation Research & Development