"attire, implements, tools, or apparatus, especially as used for a particular occupation or activity; paraphernalia
a part, as a disk, wheel, or section of a shaft, having cut teeth of such form, size, and spacing that they mesh with teeth in another part to transmit or receive force and motion."
Task: Design and execute 3 looks, including shoes and accessories, and present them to the Jury along with a booklet containing the concept (abstract & full), process documentation, and one or more key visuals.
This collection is inspired by the Historic Endurance Rallies (Oldtimer Rallies) that I take part in with my father.
My goal for this collection was to combine the glamour, drama and bold design of classic cars with the practicality, coolness and matcho fuglyness of motorsports attire, to end up with a collection that is glamorous yet cool, and tongue in cheek.
Because i like looking and feeling a bit glamorous, but I also want to be comfortable and practical so I can get shit done. I want to take the seriousness and stiff edge off the glamour by adding some ugliness and humor. I want a form of glamour that is not contradicted by getting your hands dirty.
My muses are Nina Rindt (b. 1943) who was married to Jochen Rindt, an Austrian race car driver, and the women of Tamara de Lempicka’s polished Art Deco paintings.
The shapes and details of vintage cars, glamourous vintage fashion of the 20s, 30’s, and 70’s and motorsports attire inspire the silhouettes.Invented sponsors and their logos add some humor and ugliness.
Rallying is a form of motorsport that takes place on public or private roads with modified production or specially built road-legal cars. It is distinguished by running not on a circuit, but instead in a point-to-point format in which participants and their co-drivers (navigators) drive between set control points, leaving at regular intervals from one or more start points. Rallies may be won by pure speed within the stages or alternatively by driving to a predetermined ideal journey time within the stages.
The Rallies I compete in with my father are called “Historic Endurance Rallies”, and are driven in classic cars (older than 30 years). They are long distance rallies on public roads and include tests (which are short race courses where speed counts) and regularities (which are about precision in following a given speed).
In regularities, a series of intermediate time controls must be visited in the correct order. At each control point, the team stops and has their time recorded on a card.
At the end of the event, the competitor who has visited all these controls and who has the fewest early or late penalties overall is the winner.
The necessary tools are a tripmaster (a mile counter), a stopwatch and the road book, which is written by the organizers and handed out to competitors at the start of the rally.
This collection was inspired by the Classic Car Rallies (called Oldtimer Rallies in German) that I take part in as a navigator with my father, the driver. These rallies are multiple day competitive adventures, where we drive from morning till evening, navigating through foreign countries and all sorts of weather, trying not to pick up penalties. While participating I was struck by the contrast between the beautiful and glamorous car we were driving, and the purely practical clothes we wore.
On our second rally (which took place in Scotland), I forgot to bring a rain-proof jacket, and had to borrow a jacket my father received from one of his motorcycle training courses. It’s made from grey softshell and has his name applied to it in white vinyl, along with the course’s sponsors. This piece really grew on me. In a way, its motorsports aesthetic helped me “get into character” for the competition. It made me feel like I was on a mission, and brought out my competitive streak, while also protecting me from the elements. I continued to wear it after the rally and incorporated it into my wardrobe.
I like looking and feeling glamorous, but I also want to be comfortable and practical so I can get things done and go about my day without worrying about the state of my clothes. The glamour of the fashion of the 1930’s - 1960’s is iconic (much like the cars), but that type of glamour doesn’t really work in our current time or my lifestyle. It’s impractical, since to remain glamorous a woman must abstain from doing mundane, everyday things, as those destroy the illusion of a mysterious, luxurious life.
I wanted to take the seriousness and stiff edge off the glamour by adding some ugliness and humor. I wanted to create a sort of glamour that is not contradicted by getting your hands dirty.
My Muse, who I see as a glamorous and involved woman, is Nina Rindt (b. 1943). She was a Model for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, the daughter of finnish race car driver Curt Lincoln, and married to Jochen Rindt, an Austrian race car driver, who died tragically at the age of 28 in an accident during training.
Pictures of her at the racetrack set the mood. Photographed in the late sixties, her clothes ring in the seventies. She looks relaxed but focused as she times laps with her clipboard and stopwatch, helping her husband train for races. She looks like she belongs. She’s getting shit done while looking like the coolest girl on the track.
Another muse for this project is Tamara de Lempicka. More specifically her self-portrait (aptly named “Autoportrait”) in which she’s sitting in the driver’s seat of her green Bugatti. The Women she paints look strong, like they’re made of metal, and yet they are feminine and glamorous. She often painted flowy fabric that lies in folds that seem simultaneously soft and stiff.
The shapes and details of vintage cars from the 20ies to the 70ies give me something to work with to find silhouettes (the round shapes, the idea of spoilers, materials used for the interior like tortoiseshell dashboards etc.), along with the glamourous vintage fashion of the 20ies, 30ies, and 70ies and motorsports attire (overalls, functional pockets, chunky zippers etc.) and aesthetics.
Imaginary sponsors (pictured above), inspired by the typical brands that sponsor motorsport events (banks, insurances, cigarettes, motor oil, alcohol, tires) and their logos add some humor, and tie the vintage silhouettes back into motorsports.
I took inspiration for the colors from my archive of images, focusing on brightly colored, high contrast images. I wanted to keep the bright and loud quality of motorsports attire, but deviate from the colors typically used in that setting to something more fun and feminine.
In addition to the sponsor logos, I designed an illusion textile print that mimics fabric folds (inspired by the folds in Tamara de Lempicka's paintings). I also sourced a medium weight faux-leather with a print reminiscent of tortoiseshell. For the sponsor logos I laser cut vinyl appliquées with our school’s Zünd plotter, which I fused to the fabric using a heat press.
The accessories I created included 3 pairs of shoes, a turban-like hat, a leather cap with chin strap, a harness bag designed to be worn while driving, and a suede gloves-scarf-hybrid. However I ultimately didn’t present the leather cap, as it was too literal.
Prior to the start of the project, we had (as a class) collaborated with the local “Kunsthalle Basel” museum on a performance & installation. We each created a look and an object in response to the exhibit “Havoc in the Heavenly Kingdom” (02.24.2017 - 05.14.2017) by the artist Maria Loboda. I chose her piece titled “Mrs. Van Hopper”, a single cigarette extinguished in a green jar containing a white, creamy liquid.
The object in connection with its name evoked, to me at least, a careless and glamorous woman. After some research I found out this piece is tied to a character in a Hitchcock film (“Rebecca”, 1940), who is careless but not exactly glamorous - In one scene the wealthy, gossipy Mrs. Van Hopper plunges her half-smoked cigarette into her jar of cold cream. Nonetheless, I stuck with my original fantasy of a “Mrs. Van Hopper”, an imaginary glamorous racing driver and cigarette mogul of the 1920s.
Models: Desirée, Bianca and Jill. Styled, photographed and edited by me.